I’ve been on my travels again this week, a quick thank you to Berkshire Woodturners for their hospitality during my demo this week. It was a very enjoyable evening, and I was able to collect a couple of questions during thee evening as well. It was great to see that most of the members there are already getting the Newsletter every week, if you weren’t and have signed up since, welcome!

At this week’s demo, I was asked about the Solvent Chart, and where it could be downloaded from. Which made me realise that it isn’t available anywhere except via the Newsletter – it’s currently a sort of Chestnuteer exclusive. I suppose I’d better fix that, it’s a helpful resource, and it should be more readily available.

In the meantime, I’ve updated it and if you haven’t got a copy, or you want the latest version, just click >>>HERE<<<

As our range expands, and people want more details about what we do, it’s getting harder to fit my ‘standard’ demo into a single evening. It always goes to the wire (usually over it!), and something gets left out. This week, it was how I use the aerosol finishes, and I was asked to include something in the Newsletter about it.

My technique for using aerosols is quite simple. The first thing to do is to make sure you’re not spraying from too far away. This can allow the lacquer to dry before it lands on the timber, meaning it won’t adhere and flow out. This distance gets shorter on very warm days!
Aerosols can be applied with the lathe running or stopped, or without a lathe involved at all! My preferred technique is to apply them in very light dust coats, building them up quickly to ensure the entire area is covered. This has two advantages for me. I’m usually doing this at demos, so the lighter coats means that it will dry quicker. Plus, it goes a long way to avoiding getting runs and sags in the finish. With a little practice, the aerosols will give super results; the main thing to remember is that, like pretty much all finishing, two or three thin coats work much better than one thick coat.

A phone call today asked for the best finish to put on a teak bowl. The available choices were Finishing Oil. Food Safe Finish, and Cellulose Sanding Sealer. The sealer would be a poor choice; teak is oily, so an oil finish would be best. After that, it comes down to personal choice and how the bowl will be used. As the latter hadn’t been decided on, Food Safe Finish was chosen, so that the bowl could be used for food items if needed. The finish of the bowl was already very good, so the Food Safe would highlight this. Several (5 or 6) coats of Finishing Oil would build to a brighter gloss, but this wasn’t required on this occasion.

I started this Newsletter talking about a demo in Berkshire. We get invites from all over the country; some of them are a long way away, and the travel costs make them impossible. But… we’re currently assembling the equipment we need to be able to give remote demos from our studio in the warehouse, beamed straight to your club! We’re nearly there, and hope to be able to offer these in the next couple of months. Watch this space!

Before then, I’ll be back in your inbox in a week’s time.