I really don’t know where the weeks go! They just get shorter – and so do the weekends! Here we are again, with another Newsletter.

A sincere thank you to everyone who left a Google review for us over the last week – even the 1 star one. All feedback is welcome.
And talking of which – how many of you download the PDF version of the Newsletter every week? I’m not able to track this, so I don’t know how many of you bother. Should we drop it? Let me know.

So, we’re onto the questions for this week. The first one came up twice this week (can I count it as two??). I know it’s been covered previously, but it’s obviously still something people are unsure of.

It’s about the waxes used on the C Wheel of the Buffing Wheel Kit; is a separate wheel required for each type of wax? Remembering that it can be used for buffing Carnauba Wax and Microcrystalline Wax (the latter in stick or paste form). I wish I could say yes, it would double our sales of the wheels, but the real answer is that the same wheel can be used for both waxes.
Always be careful not to apply too much of the Microcrystalline, but other than that there’s no problem. As I always say, waxes are pretty friendly and don’t mind sharing the wheel!

Another returning question asked if it is possible to add our Spirit Stains to polyurethane varnish. The answer here is that the Spirit Stain can be used to tint many different products, including a traditional (oil-based) polyurethane varnish, plus our Cellulose Sanding Sealer, Melamine Lacquer, most of our oils, and, to a lesser extent, the water-based products too. We’d usually say up to about 10% of stain can be added.

Water-based finishes will only usually tolerate small amounts of other additives going into them, so generally a maximum of 5% is suggested.

Last but not least this week, we were asked about the water-resistance of our Melamine Lacquer, and about getting the best out of it.

Firstly, it’s important to say that this lacquer chemically cures after it has been applied. Although the product is dry to the touch, this curing process is still taking place. We’d recommend allowing at least seven days before subjecting it to moisture or heat. (It’s fine before that if heat and water aren’t factors).

Secondly, water-resistance is fairly subjective. And because of the huge number of variable factors involved, it is impossible to quantify.

We’d expect, in ideal conditions, and after allowing at least a week for the lacquer to cure, that water splashed onto a lacquered surface and wiped away within a couple of hours should not damage the coating.

Depending on the water, it may leave a small mark, which should polish away easily enough.

We’d expect the same to be true for all of our lacquers.

And that’s everything for this week, but I’ll be back again next week with more of this.
Whilst we’re not in danger of reaching capacity just yet, tickets for the Woodturning Weekender are still being snapped up, so don’t leave it too late. We understand that it can be difficult to make a commitment quite so far in advance, but that clock is ticking! We’ll be sending out a lot more information soon, so if you’re on the fence, make sure you sign up for our bulletins via the Woodturning Weekender website.

See you next week