Well, it’s the end of a busy week. I hope yours has been as productive! I had a great evening down in Droitwich with Worcestershire Woodturners, thanks for the hospitality.
And, in case you haven’t heard, we are definitely going ahead with the livestream of this year’s Woodturning Weekender! So, if you can’t be there in person, this is the next best thing. Plus, you’ll have 90 days after the event to watch it as many times as you want. We’ve got some great ideas of ways to fill the gaps between demos, we’re hoping to create something really special.

If you want to join in, head on over to the Woodturning Weekender website.

I’ve had a number of questions about brushes lately; not the ones we sell, these have been about how to finish newly made cosmetic and shaving brushes, and the like.
Water-resistance has been a common question, and I’m a little confused about this; whilst the bristles will need to be washed, the handles shouldn’t need to be; they might get some water on them, but I really wouldn’t expect them to be immersed. Anyway, for the maximum protection I’d suggest the Acrylic Gloss Lacquer, or, if that is not suitable, Hard Wax Oil. Both offer a high degree of water-resistance, and are hard-wearing to cope with regular handling. And, maybe, some instructions with the brush suggesting not to wash the handle in a sink?

What, though, if the handles were coloured with Spirit Stain. Could the water contact cause the stain to come off on hands or towels? (Towels?). Anyway, yes, this is could happen. In the same way that brushes used with Spirit Stain can be washed (initially, at least), in water, exposure to water will also re-activate the stain and potentially mark other items. If the stain is fully covered, then it won’t be a problem, but if not, it could be. This was especially a concern with the shaving brushes, so my suggestion here was to mix the stain in with the Hard Wax Oil. Once it’s dried in the oil, that’s where it will stay, removing all risk of contamination.
(It could be mixed with the Cellulose Sanding Sealer and/or Melamine Lacquer, of course, but an oil was preferred on this brush).

Finally, for this week, a question that came up at a demo when I was showing the Buffing Wheel Kit. Would this prevent the build of wax in cracks, leaving white lines behind (as mentioned in a recent Newsletter – and thanks to Richard for getting the subtle music joke!).
The answer is that it wouldn’t; it’d be more likely to compress the wax more and try to polish it. A better option would be one of our Polishing Brushes; the bristle would be stiff enough to remove any surplus, whilst buffing the rest of the wax at the same time. These are great, the powered versions are very easy to use, but the hand powered ones are equally as effective.

We got another YouTube video finished recently – this one is just me, but there will be more with Stewart Furini coming soon. This one shows our method for finishing pens and small items using Melamine Lacquer and Burnishing Cream. If you’d like to see it, click here.

And I’ll leave you to enjoy the rest of the day, and the weekend. I’ll be back here (or wherever your inbox is!), next week.